Content
- 1 Description of petiolate hydrangea
- 2 Petiolate hydrangea varieties
- 3 Why petioled hydrangea does not bloom
- 4 Stalked hydrangea in landscape design
- 5 Winter hardiness of climbing hydrangea
- 6 Planting and caring for climbing hydrangea
- 7 How to propagate a petioled hydrangea
- 8 Diseases and pests
- 9 Conclusion
- 10 Reviews of gardeners about petiolate hydrangea
Petiolate hydrangea is a widespread ornamental plant, characterized by unpretentious cultivation. It is interesting to understand the varieties of hydrangea and its characteristics, this makes it possible to understand whether it will be possible to grow it on the site.
Description of petiolate hydrangea
Ornamental petiole hydrangea is also called curly, weaving or climbing. The stems of the plant are deciduous vines that grow up to 20 m in length, usually placed on vertical supports. The leaves of the plant are large, with a pointed base, of a dark green hue, the flowers are white or pale pink, light purple, collected in large inflorescences of 20 cm in diameter.
The species is unique in that it grows in the form of long vines.
Under natural conditions, petiole hydrangea grows in Sakhalin, Korea and Japan in deciduous and coniferous forests. It has been cultivated all over the world since the 19th century.
Petiolate hydrangea varieties
In horticulture, the plant is represented by several popular varieties. Among themselves, the types of petiole hydrangea differ mainly in the length of the vines and the color of the leaf plates.
Petiolaris
The petiole hydrangea of this variety can grow up to 25 m in height and is perfect for decorating garden plots. Petiolaris is used to decorate buildings, fences and tall trees. The leaves of the plant are dark green, the flowers are greenish or white.
The variety is distinguished by its rapid growth - in a year, Petiolaris adds about 1 m in length, thanks to this you can decorate the garden with flowering vines very quickly
Miranda
The Miranda cultivar reaches about 10 m in height, blooms almost all summer with white flowers with a pleasant sweet aroma. The variety is considered one of the most beautiful, as it has decorative leaves - bright green in the middle with a yellow border around the edges.
Hydrangea looks good in the garden, not only in summer, but also in autumn, when the inflorescences are already falling
Cordifolia
A dwarf petioled hydrangea usually grows no more than 1.5 m in height. You can recognize the variety not only by its compact size, but also by the color of the leaves - on the lower side they are not bright green, but slightly whitish.
Cordifolia blooms with flowers of a delicate creamy shade.
Another characteristic feature of the variety is the slow growth of only 10 cm per year.
Take e Chance
The beautiful petioled hydrangea has an unusual appearance. The leaves of the plant are dark green with a white edging around the edges and a marbled color, sometimes they become completely whitish. Teik e Chance's flowers are white, with a slight creamy tint.
Flowering continues for most of the summer, like other varieties
Silver Lining
The petiolate hydrangea grows on average up to 2 m in height, sometimes up to 7 m. It differs in leaves of a deep green shade with a white edging, the underside of the leaves is reddish.
In summer, the variety blooms profusely with beautiful white flowers, and in autumn it completely acquires a burgundy color and looks very decorative.
Winter Surprise
Hydrangea Winter Surprise usually grows no higher than 2 m. The leaves of the variety are green, but towards autumn they acquire a reddish, maroon or cherry hue. The variety blooms with snow-white large flowers, hence the name of the plant.
Unlike most hydrangeas, Winter Surprise is distinguished by early flowering - in late spring and early summer.
Why petioled hydrangea does not bloom
Although most varieties are quite attractive in their own right, hydrangeas are usually planted in the garden in order to admire their lush and vibrant blooms. But it so happens that the plant does not bloom, and there are several reasons for this:
- Damage by pests or diseases. If spider mites, aphids and other insects have settled on the plant, or it has suffered from fungal ailments, then you can not wait for flowering. Hydrangeas are not strong enough to form buds.
- Lack of light. Although petioled hydrangea can grow in light shade, flowering from it can only be achieved in the presence of good lighting.
- Excess nitrogen in the soil. If the soil is oversaturated with fertilizers, and in particular nitrogen, the plant will grow rapidly, but it will not be able to form flowers.
- Incorrect cropping. Strongly thickened plants bloom poorly or do not bloom at all. All their energy is spent on maintaining the green mass. Also, flowering will not take place if you inadvertently cut off annual shoots, it is on them that flower buds are laid.
Stalked hydrangea in landscape design
When creating a garden design, petiole hydrangea is used very widely and variedly. Photos of liana hydrangea show that you can use it:
- for decorating a stone surface - a wall, a barn, a garage or a high fence;
- for single plantings - often petiolate hydrangea is fixed on a support made of reinforcement and forms a kind of bonsai 2-3 m high;
- to create Japanese-style gardens;
- for decorating gazebos and arches;
- for braiding the trunks of garden trees.
Basically, the liana-shaped hydrangea is fixed on vertical supports. But sometimes it is also used as a ground cover plant, to decorate the slopes. The disadvantage of this use case is that it is almost impossible to walk on the hydrangea creeping under your feet. Its leaves form a very slippery cover for the soil, this becomes especially noticeable after rain.
Liana-like plant can completely transform the landscape
Winter hardiness of climbing hydrangea
An adult climbing hydrangea is a very winter-hardy plant that can calmly tolerate frosts down to -35 ° C. This allows you to grow crops not only in the middle lane, but also in Siberia, practically without worrying about winter shelter.
It is recommended to protect from frost only young plants 2-3 years old. It is better to remove them from the support and cover them for a cold period.
Planting and caring for climbing hydrangea
One of the main advantages of the climbing hydrangea is its simplicity. It is very easy to grow an ornamental plant; only minimal effort is required from the gardener.
Selection and preparation of the landing site
Hydrangea needs sunlight, but does not tolerate scorching heat and drafts. Therefore, it should be planted in an area where there is shading and protection from the wind, this will allow the plant to feel comfortable and maintain the ability to bloom.Optimal for culture will be a neighborhood with tall trees, fences or buildings.
Vines feel best in light shading with protection from the wind.
The petioled hydrangea prefers soils that are acidic and low in calcium. The plant feels best on loose soils with good drainage, and if the crop is to be planted on heavy soil, then special attention should be paid to sand.
Landing rules
A planting hole for a petioled hydrangea is prepared about 2 weeks before planting, the depth of the hole should be 2 times greater than the root system of the seedling. A mixture of peat, compost, clay, sand and leafy earth is half filled into the hole.
Before planting, the seedling of the plant is kept in water for 12 hours so that the roots are properly saturated with moisture. Then the hydrangea is lowered into a half-filled hole, spreading its roots, and covered with the remains of the soil. In this case, the neck should be deepened by a maximum of 3 cm.
The earth in the near-trunk circle is slightly trampled down and the hydrangea is watered abundantly with water, at least 2 buckets under the root. Moist soil is mulched so that the water does not evaporate too quickly.
Most hydrangea varieties grow quickly, so it is recommended to install supports for climbing shoots already at the planting stage. If the vines are planted in several copies, you need to leave a space of at least 1 m between them, otherwise, as they grow, they will interfere with each other.
Immediately after planting, it is advisable to attach the future vine to the support
Watering and feeding
The climbing plant needs a lot of moisture, so it needs to be watered regularly. In dry warm weather, pour 30 liters of water into the trunk circle twice a week, in rainy weather - only once a week. In this case, the water should be purified and warmed up to room temperature.
The petioled hydrangea is usually fed three times a year:
- In early spring, at the beginning of the growing season, it is necessary to add urea, sulfuric potassium and superphosphate under the root.
- During the formation of flower buds, the liana is fed with superphosphate and potassium.
- In August, 10-15 kg of compost or rotted manure are scattered under the bushes of hydrangeas.
Also in the spring, hydrangea bushes can be watered with a pink solution of potassium permanganate, this will strengthen the plant and protect it from diseases.
Watering a moisture-loving plant often needs to be done.
Pruning hydrangea petiolate
In order for the petioled vine to look truly decorative, it must be shaped from time to time, without this it thickens and takes on an untidy look.
In the process of pruning, dried shoots and broken branches are removed from the plant, leaving only 6-10 strong healthy lashes. Annual shoots are not cut, but shortened to 5 pairs of buds. The main pruning is carried out in the spring, before the hydrangea starts to grow, and in the fall, all dried inflorescences are usually only removed from the vines.
How to cover a petioled hydrangea for the winter
Due to its high winter hardiness, an adult petioled hydrangea does not need a special winter shelter. Even in Siberia, a liana-like plant can withstand severe frosts, if some of the shoots freeze, then in the spring the petioled hydrangea will quickly release new ones.
Adult vines do not need winter shelter
Before the onset of cold weather, they are removed from the support and laid on the boards, and covered with spruce branches, non-woven material or a dense layer of fallen leaves on top.
How to propagate a petioled hydrangea
To increase the population of climbing liana on the site, you can propagate an existing plant without buying new seedlings. Basically, gardeners have resorted to two methods of reproduction.
Cuttings
Hydrangea climbing vines reproduce well with the help of stiff cuttings.At the beginning of summer, a cutting about 15 cm long with at least 2 nodes is cut from a healthy lignified stem, the lower leaves are removed and placed in a solution with a root formation stimulator for a day. Then the shoot is planted in a box with a sand-peat mixture, watered and covered with a film.
Vines reproduce well by cuttings and seeds.
From time to time, the film is removed to ventilate the shoot and water it again. When a young petioled vine grows stronger and starts growing, it is transplanted under the open sky, usually the next year.
Seed reproduction
The method is used infrequently, since it is difficult to propagate a petioled hydrangea from seeds - efforts may not be crowned with success. The purchased seeds are sown in plastic or peat pots with moist nutrient soil, consisting mainly of sand and peat. The container is covered with glass or wrapped in foil and placed in a room with a temperature of at least 18 ° C.
Before the first shoots of planting appear, you only need to periodically moisten and ventilate daily. Usually, seedlings are shown from the ground after 1.5 months, if you plant the seeds at the end of winter, then in April the seedlings will give the first leaves.
After the leaves appear, the seedlings can be dived. It is advisable to transfer the plant to the ground only after a year, when the seedlings get stronger as they should.
Vines are usually transferred to an open area in the second year of life.
Diseases and pests
Curly petioled hydrangea is a plant vulnerable to pests and ailments. Most often, vines suffer from the following diseases:
- gray rot;
Vine shoots and leaves first turn gray and colorless, and then black spots appear on them
- chlorosis;
It occurs against a background of iron deficiency in the soil, the leaves of the plant turn yellow ahead of time, while the veins remain green
- white rot;
The roots of the climbing vine rots, and the shoots turn black and become covered with a whitish bloom
- powdery mildew;
At first, the leaves of the petiole liana are covered with yellow spots, and then turn brown on the outside and acquire a purple color on the inside.
- ring spot.
The virus manifests itself as black dead spots on the leaves and quickly leads to the death of the liana plant.
Spring and summer spraying with Fundazol, Fitosporin and other fungicides helps with most fungal ailments. It is necessary to carry out processing with an interval of 2-3 weeks.
From pests and fungi, vines should be regularly prophylactically sprayed
Of the pests, the greatest danger to vines is represented by spider mites, aphids, gall nematodes and snails on vines. In order not to miss the infection, you need to regularly examine the vines for harmful insects. In case of infection, the petiole plant can be sprayed with Aktara and other insecticides and acaricides, as well as treated with Bordeaux liquid.
Conclusion
Stalked hydrangea is a very unusual and beautiful ornamental plant. Flexible long vines can densely braid a fence, wall of a house or a gazebo, giving the garden a special charm. At the same time, it is easy to care for the hydrangea - the requirements for its conditions are low.
